Hot Rod Girl: Owning a classic car is simpler than you think

Believe it or not, your parents were once cooler than you are. Doubtful? Just check out the cars they drove: big-finned beauties with throaty V-6 engines, miles of chrome, and names like Fury, Valiant, Corvair.

Now look at your own car. If you're like most of us, you're driving a bland, aerodynamic bubble on wheels. Yes, it's modern and trustworthy, perfectly likable in a button-down sort of way, but maybe now and then you find yourself watching a James Dean movie and thinking, "I'd look pretty swell in one of those old cars." Maybe you're ready for something with a little shake, rattle, and roll.

But maybe you're also a bit wary. You aren't sure that you really want to trust your life (and your wallet) to a vehicle that's thirty or forty years old.

The good news is, owning a classic car is simpler than you'd think. In fact, vintage cars can be cheaper, safer, and easier to maintain than their contemporary counterparts. Not to mention way cooler.

What is a Classic Car?

"Classic car" is an imprecise term. To one hardcore enthusiast, "classic" may mean pre-1960; another might apply the term to her baby blue 1973 Cadillac. If you'd like to have antique-car plates, check with your state DMV to find out what restrictions apply. Basically, though, "classic" is in the eye of the beholder. Style-wise, you'll find plenty of unique and interesting models from the 1970s on back.

The Myths about Classic Cars

It seems reasonable to assume that old cars (they're old, right?) are prone to fall apart. Wrong. These babies were built to last. Older cars were manufactured with steel bodies--none of the fiberglass and plastic you find in newer cars. In a classic car, you're more likely to kill a telephone pole than yourself. The heavy steel body also allows for greater traction in bad weather and on soft ground.

You might also assume that a classic is hard to maintain and repair. In fact, older cars were designed so that the average Jane could do many of the repairs herself. Back in the good old days, there were fewer service stations and parts chains along our relatively new highway system, so auto makers designed cars that were friendly to the home mechanic. And without today's computer chips and other newfangled complications, older cars are much simpler machines, making for easier diagnosis and repair.

Shopping for a Classic Car

A pristine, show-quality classic will cost you a pretty penny, but if you're willing to buy a fixer-upper, you can get a bargain on a classic (and isn't restoring the car half the fun?). You'll find a wide range of models that can be had for $400 to $3,000. Set aside another $1,000 for repairs and improvements--anything from a new water pump to a new paint job to a flame kit for the exhaust system.

Chevrolets are particularly friendly to classic-car buyers, as Chevy has never stopped making aftermarket parts for its older models. Unlike today's cars, you'll find that many parts are interchangeable on vintage cars. For instance, many older GM cars take the same parts, as do Chrysler-Plymouth-Dodge vehicles.

Once you see that pretty Bel Air or Coupe De Ville, don't let the chrome blind your checkbook. Most classic-car repairs are cheap and easy, but there are a few major problems you'll want to avoid.

Check to see if the engine is leaking oil. If so, the engine could seize up, and it will cost about $500 to replace.

The electrical system is key, too. Make sure all the lights are working and invest in a new bulb or two to help you with your troubleshooting. An electrical diagnostic test ($30-$50) is a good idea. To replace any of the major electrical system parts (the starter, alternator, or battery) will cost you less than $100 and the time it takes to remove two bolts--no big deal. But if the major parts check out okay and the car still has electrical problems (dim lights, battery dying for no reason) there may be trouble in the wiring, and that spells h-e-a-d-a-c-h-e.

Be sure to test all the little gadgets, too - lights, wipers, heat, doors, windows, and locks. If there are problems, you'll want to consider the repair costs before you buy the car.

Finally, inspect the body and frame carefully. Jack up the car and check the underside for rust and holes. Get in the car and push on the floor with your feet to see if it gives. A rusted-out frame means a costly welding job. (Those of you in warm, dry climates will have a much easier time finding classic cars with intact bodies and frames. Those of you in the Rust Belt may want to head south or west to do your shopping.)

A Special Note on 1950s Cars

Cars from the 1950s and earlier are among the most coveted classics, but they come with special needs. All 1950s cars have V6 engines and run on 6-volt generators instead of alternators. Ideally, you'll want to convert the car over to a 12-volt system. The conversion will cost you several hundred dollars, but in the long run, you'll have a much easier time maintaining and finding parts for a 12-volt system.

Also, you won't find power steering in a 1950s car. This isn't such a big deal. My 115-pound friend Mimi drove a 3,000-pound Plymouth Fury for years without power steering, and she did fine. However, if you're going to want power steering, get an estimate on the work before you buy the car.

You may also encounter some 1950s cars that still have ply-bias tires, a predecessor to radials. Some even have tubes instead of steel belts. Yeesh. You will probably want to upgrade to modern tires.

After You Buy a Classic

Before you start picking out new paint, give your car a good tune-up. Every classic car in the world still has an extant manual floating around somewhere. Find the manual for your car and buy it. You may get lucky at your local auto-parts superstore, where they'll have a selection of Chilton's manuals. If not, check the ads in a good hot-rod magazine.

A basic tune-up is pretty simple. Check all your fluids and change the oil. Also, replace the distributor cap and rotor, and change the spark plugs and wires. Your manual includes guidelines on how to gap the spark plugs.

And be sure to have a professional technician give the brakes a thorough inspection. (Remember, you just bought yourself a big old hunk of car--tip-top brakes are a must.)

The Fabulous Possibilities

A classic car is like an apartment. You can do it up like crazy to reflect your personality and make riding in it a joy instead of a necessity to get from point A to B. Go nuts with leopard upholstery, a metal-flake wheel, or moon-eyes gauges. Check out the classified ads in a good custom or hot-rod magazine and decorate to your heart's content...and don't forget the fuzzy dice.

Links

http://www.classiccar.com/An online community for classic-car enthusiasts with chats and forums; feature articles on maintenance, restoration, and customizing; and good links to consumer and auction sites for classics.

http://www.hrdeluxe.com/The online version of the magazine Hot Rod Deluxe, a car mag for the hip greaser set. Great links and pictures of car rallies and events.